California State Home & Garden Show
January 4-6
Sacramento Convention Center
Sacramento, California
916-808-5181
www.calstatehomeshow.com
Lively Gardens: Flora and Fauna
January 15
Hilltop Arboretum
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
225-767-6916
www.lsu.edu/hilltop
Virginia Flower & Garden Expo
January 20-22
Virginia Beach, Virginia
757-523-4734
www.vafgs.org
Cleveland Home & Garden Show
January 20-29
The Great Lakes Expo Center
Euclid, Ohio
800-600-0307
www.homeandflower.com
Tacoma Home & Garden Show
January 25-29
Tacoma Dome
Tacoma, Washington
www.otshows.com
Plant-O-Rama
January 31
Brooklyn Botanic Garden
Brooklyn, New York
718-623-7200
www.bbg.org
Monday, December 17, 2012
Thursday, December 6, 2012
The GardenScribe Plant Organizer has a new look!
Just in time for the holiday season, and in response to customer requests, Everyday Projects LLC has introduced a new binder size for its popular gardening journal, the GardenScribe Plant Organizer.
The new binder is a 1 ½ inch ring case made binder with a beautiful floral cover designed by fine artist Schery Markee-Sullivan.
Customers will now be able to choose the binder that suits them best.
Visit our website for full details.
The new binder is a 1 ½ inch ring case made binder with a beautiful floral cover designed by fine artist Schery Markee-Sullivan.
Customers will now be able to choose the binder that suits them best.
Visit our website for full details.
Labels:
Publications
Monday, October 22, 2012
Fall Pruning
While raking the first of the fall leaves, I noticed that my row of Euonymus shrubs were a little messy. They had a growth spurt back in August, but I was busy doing other things and never got around to pruning them. So, I got out my pruners and spent a couple of hours cutting back the new growth. The Euonymus looked nice and tidy and I was very pleased with my work.
A few days later I received an email newsletter from Horticulture Magazine with the subject “Fall Pruning: Do or Don’t?”. Unfortunately for me, the answer to that burning question is DON'T.
Oops!
In a panic I did a Google search hoping to find an expert that would support the idea of fall pruning and get me off the hook. No such luck. All of the reputable sources agree that pruning encourages new growth which is not something you should do in the fall when the plant is trying to go dormant.
Drats!
Oh well. I guess I’ll just have to hope that my untimely pruning won’t cause my beautiful Euonymus any serious damage.
To read more about fall pruning check out this Rodale article.
A few days later I received an email newsletter from Horticulture Magazine with the subject “Fall Pruning: Do or Don’t?”. Unfortunately for me, the answer to that burning question is DON'T.
Oops!
In a panic I did a Google search hoping to find an expert that would support the idea of fall pruning and get me off the hook. No such luck. All of the reputable sources agree that pruning encourages new growth which is not something you should do in the fall when the plant is trying to go dormant.
Drats!
Oh well. I guess I’ll just have to hope that my untimely pruning won’t cause my beautiful Euonymus any serious damage.
To read more about fall pruning check out this Rodale article.
Labels:
Plant Care
Wednesday, August 1, 2012
Hopi Crape Myrtle
Botanical Name: Lagerstroemia indica x fauriei “Hopi”
Common Name: Crape Myrtle “Hopi”
Plant Type: Shrub or small tree, semi-dwarf
Light Requirements: Full Sun
Zone: 6-9
Growth Rate: Fast
Height X Spread: 10' H x 10' W
Bloom Time: Summer - fall
Bloom Description: Clusters of pink blooms
Foliage Description: Dark green glossy leaves in summer, orange red in fall
Soil: Average, well-drained
Water: Regular, drought tolerant
Prune: Late winter
Tidy: Deadhead
Fertilizer: General purpose or Holly Tone
Fertilizing cycle: Feed before new growth begins in spring
Special Maintenance: None
Propagation: Semi-hardwood cuttings taken during growing season
Pests & Diseases: Disease resistant
Notes: Hopi can be planted in groups or as an individual specimen. Blooms start in mid July and fade into seed capsules in the fall when the leaves take on an outstanding orange red color. Deadhead to encourage a second bloom. Hopi can be kept as a shrub with yearly pruning or allowed to grow to its full height as a specimen tree.
Prune any time during the late winter before new growth begins. Avoid fall pruning which can encourage new growth and keep the plant from going dormant. To maintain as a shrub, prune back to about ½ its size. Hopi can tolerate a hard pruning.
To develop as a tree, choose three to five shoots growing from ground level as the main trunks, and remove the remaining shoots. Remove the side branches from the main trunks about halfway up their height.
Labels:
Plant Profile
Tuesday, July 24, 2012
Cicada Killer Wasp
Last year my neighbor had a swarm of wasps in her yard. They were large and scary looking, so she called an exterminator who explained that they were Cicada Killer Wasps, also called Ground Digger Wasps. He told her to ignore them because they’re harmless and would be gone in a month. So, that’s what she did.
The problem is the wasps are back this year and now have spread to my yard. We’re starting to think that leaving them alone might not be the best idea.
I understand that Cicada Wasps are beneficial insects.
I understand that they will not sting me.
I understand that they will only be a nuisance for about a month
I’d still prefer them to find some other place to do their business.
The question is how do I get rid of them? After doing some research, I've learned that Cicada Killer Wasps like to make their nests in bare, dry, unfertilized soil. In the Northeastern US, they are active for about one month, from mid-July to mid-August. The wasps you see swarming around during the day are males. Males do not have a stinger so they can’t harm you. The female has a stinger but probably won’t sting you unless you actually step on her. Cicada Wasps can be hard to get rid of because you have to kill the wasps as well as the eggs the female leaves inside the nest.
After reading a few really interesting articles by people in the “bug” field, I’ve determined that one or all of the following methods should get rid of them.
Method 1: Poison the wasps while they are in the nest
Locate the nests. The nest will look like a small pile of soil with a hole in the middle. There will probably be more than one. Mark the location so that you’ll be able to find it in the dark. A good way to do this is to stick a white plastic knife in the ground right next to the hole. Wait until dark when the wasps have gone into the nest. Using a flashlight, find the marked nests and pour ammonia or wasp insecticide into the nest. Keep in mind that this method will probably kill the wasps, but may not kill the eggs.
Method 2: Swat them
Use a Badminton racquet to swat the wasps while they are flying around. The males can’t hurt you because they don’t have a stinger. And, they aren’t very fast so you should be able to get them. It sounds a little crazy, but many people swear by this method. The downside is that eggs in the nest will hatch next year.
Method 3: Flood them out
Locate the nests as in Method 1. Wait until dark and pour boiling water into the nest. Plug up the hole with a stick or rock. Over the next few days keep the area wet. This will make the area less attractive to any new wasps.
I’ve tried Methods 1 and 3 and both seem to have worked. I haven’t tried Method 2 because I don’t have a Badminton racquet (at least that’s the excuse I’m sticking with). If they return next year, and everything I’ve read suggests that they will, I will definitely try the swatting method. But, more important than how to kill them is how to keep them from wanting to come here in the first place.
This is what I’ll be doing to prevent them from nesting:
The problem is the wasps are back this year and now have spread to my yard. We’re starting to think that leaving them alone might not be the best idea.
I understand that Cicada Wasps are beneficial insects.
I understand that they will not sting me.
I understand that they will only be a nuisance for about a month
I’d still prefer them to find some other place to do their business.
The question is how do I get rid of them? After doing some research, I've learned that Cicada Killer Wasps like to make their nests in bare, dry, unfertilized soil. In the Northeastern US, they are active for about one month, from mid-July to mid-August. The wasps you see swarming around during the day are males. Males do not have a stinger so they can’t harm you. The female has a stinger but probably won’t sting you unless you actually step on her. Cicada Wasps can be hard to get rid of because you have to kill the wasps as well as the eggs the female leaves inside the nest.
After reading a few really interesting articles by people in the “bug” field, I’ve determined that one or all of the following methods should get rid of them.
Method 1: Poison the wasps while they are in the nest
Locate the nests. The nest will look like a small pile of soil with a hole in the middle. There will probably be more than one. Mark the location so that you’ll be able to find it in the dark. A good way to do this is to stick a white plastic knife in the ground right next to the hole. Wait until dark when the wasps have gone into the nest. Using a flashlight, find the marked nests and pour ammonia or wasp insecticide into the nest. Keep in mind that this method will probably kill the wasps, but may not kill the eggs.
Method 2: Swat them
Use a Badminton racquet to swat the wasps while they are flying around. The males can’t hurt you because they don’t have a stinger. And, they aren’t very fast so you should be able to get them. It sounds a little crazy, but many people swear by this method. The downside is that eggs in the nest will hatch next year.
Method 3: Flood them out
Locate the nests as in Method 1. Wait until dark and pour boiling water into the nest. Plug up the hole with a stick or rock. Over the next few days keep the area wet. This will make the area less attractive to any new wasps.
I’ve tried Methods 1 and 3 and both seem to have worked. I haven’t tried Method 2 because I don’t have a Badminton racquet (at least that’s the excuse I’m sticking with). If they return next year, and everything I’ve read suggests that they will, I will definitely try the swatting method. But, more important than how to kill them is how to keep them from wanting to come here in the first place.
This is what I’ll be doing to prevent them from nesting:
- Mow the lawn with the highest setting
- Use thick wood chip mulch or stones in garden beds
- Fertilize the soil
- Don’t allow the soil to become dry
Labels:
Insects
Friday, July 20, 2012
2012 Horticultural Events
Urban Garden
Brooklyn, New York
June 2 – September 23
718-623-7200
All About Crapemyrtles
Washington, D.C.
July 29
202-245-4521
Orchid Culture
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
July 28 & 29
954-703-2606
Herb Garden Weekend
Chicago, Illinois
July 28 & 29
847-835-5440
Ornamental Grasses for the Landscape
Chula Vista, California
August 11
619-421-6700 ext 5416
Minnesota State Gladiolus Show
New Ulm, Minnesota
August 11 & 12
507-426-6011
Landscape Design Workshop
Hot Springs, Arkansas
August 13, 20 & 27
501-262-9300
Meadow Gardens
Framingham, Massachusetts
August 14
508-877-7630
Dahlia Show
Madison, Wisconsin
August 18 & 19
608-577-1924
Brooklyn, New York
June 2 – September 23
718-623-7200
All About Crapemyrtles
Washington, D.C.
July 29
202-245-4521
Orchid Culture
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
July 28 & 29
954-703-2606
Herb Garden Weekend
Chicago, Illinois
July 28 & 29
847-835-5440
Ornamental Grasses for the Landscape
Chula Vista, California
August 11
619-421-6700 ext 5416
Minnesota State Gladiolus Show
New Ulm, Minnesota
August 11 & 12
507-426-6011
Landscape Design Workshop
Hot Springs, Arkansas
August 13, 20 & 27
501-262-9300
Meadow Gardens
Framingham, Massachusetts
August 14
508-877-7630
Dahlia Show
Madison, Wisconsin
August 18 & 19
608-577-1924
Labels:
Events
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
Garden Conservancy’s Open Days Program
Need some ideas for your garden beds? A great way to spark your creativity is to visit some of the private gardens that have been graciously opened to the public through the Garden Conservancy’s Open Days Program. Volunteers at the Conservancy spend the year scouting out exceptional gardens for the program, and then publish the list in their Open Days Directory. You can purchase a copy of the directory for $21.95 (free for Garden Conservancy members). Many of the gardens are also listed on their website beginning in April.
You do not need to be a member of the Conservancy to attend the self-guided tours and you do not need a reservation. There is a $5 admission fee if you pay at the garden (free for children under 12), or you can purchase discounted tickets in advance through their website or by calling 1-888-842-2442.
Visit the Garden Conservancy website for more information.
You do not need to be a member of the Conservancy to attend the self-guided tours and you do not need a reservation. There is a $5 admission fee if you pay at the garden (free for children under 12), or you can purchase discounted tickets in advance through their website or by calling 1-888-842-2442.
Visit the Garden Conservancy website for more information.
Labels:
Garden Tours
Wednesday, May 9, 2012
Coreopsis grandiflora ‘Baby Sun’
Botanical Name: Coreopsis grandiflora ‘Baby Sun’
Common Name: Tickseed
Plant Type: Perennial
Light Requirements: Full Sun, Part Sun
Zone: 4-9
Growth Rate: Fast
Height X Spread: 15-20” H x 12“ W
Bloom Time: Late spring through fall
Bloom Description: 2-inch yellow daisy like flowers with orange center
Foliage Description: Bushy upright stems with medium green narrow leaves
Soil: Well drained, neutral pH
Water: Regular, drought tolerant
Tidy: Deadhead for continuous bloom
Fertilizer: 1 small handful of Espoma Flower Tone
Fertilizing cycle: In spring before new growth begins
Special Maintenance: Cut back to the ground in the fall
Divide: Divide clumps every 2-3 years in the spring
Propagation: Sow seeds in a seedbed in mid-spring, root basal cuttings in spring
Pests & Diseases: Aphids, powdery mildew
Notes: Coreopsis is a drought tolerant plant, but it needs regular watering (1 inch a week) in the first season to establish a deep root system. Coreopsis attracts butterflies and is ideal for cutting. Do not over fertilize or you’ll end up with a tall floppy plant. A small handful of general purpose slow acting fertilizer, such as Espoma Flower Tone, in the spring should be enough for the whole season. If you want the plant to reseed, leave the dried blooms on the plant at the end of the season. The flower seeds will mature and drop off the plant into the soil.
Labels:
Plant Profile
Tuesday, April 24, 2012
Organic Lawn Care Book
I switched over to organic lawn care about 8 years ago. I’m glad that I made the switch, and for the most part, I'm happy with my lawn. But, I have to admit that it isn’t picture perfect. Part of the reason is that I focus most of my time and attention on my garden beds, and then really just don’t have enough energy to fuss with my lawn. I’m satisfied if it’s green, even if some of the green is weeds.
However, this spring I noticed that the north side of my property was being taken over by clover. So, I decided to research the best way to get rid of it. My first thought was some kind of chemical weed killer. Then I came across a book that I found to be very helpful: The Organic Lawn Care Manual by Paul Tukey.
The author spent many years as a lawn care professional. After suffering from some medical problems related to the use of lawn chemicals, he decided to eliminate chemicals and find organic alternatives to lawn care.
The book explains how to evaluate your lawn’s current condition and how to make the transition from chemicals to organics. There are instructions on how to start a lawn from scratch as well as how to renovate an existing lawn. The author is a proponent of compost tea, and gives step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to make your own brew. There is a very detailed description of common weeds and what they are trying to tell you about your soil (in my case, the clover is an indication that my soil lacks nitrogen).
Overall, I found this book to be well written and would recommend it to anyone interested in organic lawn care.
Labels:
Plant Care,
Publications
Tuesday, March 13, 2012
Washington DC Cherry Blossoms 2012
Wondering when the Cherry Blossoms along Washington DC’s Tidal Basin will bloom? Well, it can be anywhere from mid-March to mid-April depending on what kind of winter we’ve had. So, it’s hard to pin down to an exact date until about 10 days before they actually bloom. According to National Park Service chief horticulturist Robert DeFeo, the “peak” bloom period for 2012 will probably be March 24 – 28. That means that buds could start opening as early as March 20th and last for about 14 days.
The National Park Service monitors the stages of bud development to try and give a more accurate bloom date the closer we get to the actual “pop”. So, check out the Bloom Watch page on the festival’s website for the latest information.
This year Washington DC will celebrate the 100th Anniversary of the Cherry Blossom Festival. It’s a five week event from March 20 – April 27, 2012. See their website for details and a full schedule.
The National Park Service monitors the stages of bud development to try and give a more accurate bloom date the closer we get to the actual “pop”. So, check out the Bloom Watch page on the festival’s website for the latest information.
This year Washington DC will celebrate the 100th Anniversary of the Cherry Blossom Festival. It’s a five week event from March 20 – April 27, 2012. See their website for details and a full schedule.
Labels:
Events
Monday, March 12, 2012
2012 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map
Do you know your Plant Hardiness Zone? It’s an important piece of information to have before you purchase plants for your garden because it helps you determine which plants will survive in your area.
In February 2012, the USDA released a new Plant Hardiness Zone Map, the first update in 25 years. Additions to the map are Alaska, Hawaii, and Puerto Rico. You will also see a very detailed breakdown of each zone.
An interactive version of the map is now available at the USDA Agricultural Research Service.
Click on your state, or enter in your zip code to get your hardiness zone.
In February 2012, the USDA released a new Plant Hardiness Zone Map, the first update in 25 years. Additions to the map are Alaska, Hawaii, and Puerto Rico. You will also see a very detailed breakdown of each zone.
An interactive version of the map is now available at the USDA Agricultural Research Service.
Click on your state, or enter in your zip code to get your hardiness zone.
Labels:
Publications
Friday, February 24, 2012
Late Winter Is The Time For Hard Pruning
If you have an old shrub that has grown too big for its space, now is the time to get it under control. Winter is the best time to do a hard pruning because the shrub is dormant, so you won’t risk damage to delicate buds. In addition, it will have plenty of time to recover from the pruning before next winter. A hard, or renovation, pruning is when you cut the stems back almost to the ground. Keep in mind that a shrub that blooms on old growth may not bloom in the first season after a hard pruning.
Use a hand saw or pruner to cut the stems back 6-10 inches from the ground. It may be easier to use a chain saw for very thick stems. In mid-summer, cut back about ½ of the new stems. Prune some of the remaining stems so that they aren’t all the same size. Always try to prune back to an outward facing bud to force new growth out and away from the center of the shrub.
Not all shrubs will tolerate a hard pruning, so be sure to do a little research before you begin. Keep notes so that you’ll remember which of your plants can handle a renovation pruning. It helps if you take photos before and after you prune. This way you’ll be able to document how well the plant recovers.
Here is an interesting video that illustrates hard pruning. In the video you’ll see that they prune Burning Bush within a few inches of the ground, but they leave 2-3 feet of the Viburnum stems.
Use a hand saw or pruner to cut the stems back 6-10 inches from the ground. It may be easier to use a chain saw for very thick stems. In mid-summer, cut back about ½ of the new stems. Prune some of the remaining stems so that they aren’t all the same size. Always try to prune back to an outward facing bud to force new growth out and away from the center of the shrub.
Not all shrubs will tolerate a hard pruning, so be sure to do a little research before you begin. Keep notes so that you’ll remember which of your plants can handle a renovation pruning. It helps if you take photos before and after you prune. This way you’ll be able to document how well the plant recovers.
Here is an interesting video that illustrates hard pruning. In the video you’ll see that they prune Burning Bush within a few inches of the ground, but they leave 2-3 feet of the Viburnum stems.
Labels:
Plant Care
Sunday, January 15, 2012
2012 Flower Shows
Northwest Flower & Garden Show
Washington State Convention Center, Seattle, WA
February 8–12
Connecticut Flower & Garden Show
Connecticut Convention Center, Hartford, CT
February 23–26
Rhode Island Spring Flower & Garden Show
Rhode Island Convention Center, Providence, RI
February 23–26
Akron Home & Flower Show
John S. Knight Center, Akron, OH
February 24–26
Philadelphia International Flower Show
Pennsylvania Convention Center, Philadelphia, PA
March 4–11
Portland Flower Show
Portland Company Complex, Portland, ME
March 7–11
Chicago Flower & Garden Show
Navy Pier, Chicago, IL
March 10–18
Boston Flower & Garden Show
Seaport World Trade Center, Boston, MA
March 14–18
San Francisco Flower & Garden Show
San Mateo Event Center, San Mateo, CA
March 21–25
Capital District Garden & Flower Show
Hudson Valley Community College, Troy, NY
March 23–25
Nashville Lawn & Garden Show
Tennessee State Fairgrounds, Nashville, TN
March 1–4
Epcot International Flower & Garden Festival
Epcot Center, Orlando, FL
March 7–May 20
Boise Flower & Garden ShowThe Boise Center, Boise, ID
March 23–25
Courtesy of Horticulture Magazine
Washington State Convention Center, Seattle, WA
February 8–12
Connecticut Flower & Garden Show
Connecticut Convention Center, Hartford, CT
February 23–26
Rhode Island Spring Flower & Garden Show
Rhode Island Convention Center, Providence, RI
February 23–26
Akron Home & Flower Show
John S. Knight Center, Akron, OH
February 24–26
Philadelphia International Flower Show
Pennsylvania Convention Center, Philadelphia, PA
March 4–11
Portland Flower Show
Portland Company Complex, Portland, ME
March 7–11
Chicago Flower & Garden Show
Navy Pier, Chicago, IL
March 10–18
Boston Flower & Garden Show
Seaport World Trade Center, Boston, MA
March 14–18
San Francisco Flower & Garden Show
San Mateo Event Center, San Mateo, CA
March 21–25
Capital District Garden & Flower Show
Hudson Valley Community College, Troy, NY
March 23–25
Nashville Lawn & Garden Show
Tennessee State Fairgrounds, Nashville, TN
March 1–4
Epcot International Flower & Garden Festival
Epcot Center, Orlando, FL
March 7–May 20
Boise Flower & Garden ShowThe Boise Center, Boise, ID
March 23–25
Courtesy of Horticulture Magazine
Labels:
Events
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